Point wiring
Re: Point wiring
Be aware that having sorted out wiring your Hornby point motors and now thinking of using Peco motors that they use the same 3 colours but for the sake of elec-trickery they connect them in a different order. Red stays red but black and green need to be swapped over.
Re: Point wiring
Hiya
Yes to the previous posting. The green wire is the one I run directly to the CDU.
Have installed 2 ( out of 6 bought) peco pl11 points today. One seems to be working fine, the other not quite throwing in one direction.
Couple of questions:
1) Just how true aligned do these solenoids have to be out of interest?!
2) Should the throw bar move left and right on every consecutive actuation? A couple of my point solenoids throw in one direction but whilst they click in the other, they tend to return to central. This is when simply tested away from the track.
Using a 16V AC supply from my Gaugemaster controller and a 2nd hand Gaugemaster CDU I recently bought from eBay. Have ordered another brand new one from Amazon (different brand) just to ensure my CDU isn't playing up. Can always return if not needed.
Cheers again
Yes to the previous posting. The green wire is the one I run directly to the CDU.
Have installed 2 ( out of 6 bought) peco pl11 points today. One seems to be working fine, the other not quite throwing in one direction.
Couple of questions:
1) Just how true aligned do these solenoids have to be out of interest?!
2) Should the throw bar move left and right on every consecutive actuation? A couple of my point solenoids throw in one direction but whilst they click in the other, they tend to return to central. This is when simply tested away from the track.
Using a 16V AC supply from my Gaugemaster controller and a 2nd hand Gaugemaster CDU I recently bought from eBay. Have ordered another brand new one from Amazon (different brand) just to ensure my CDU isn't playing up. Can always return if not needed.
Cheers again
Re: Point wiring
For the initial installation the tie bar and rails need to be set centrally in the point - use plastic shims to hold against the spring resistance. The solenoid also needs the pin to be central in it's travel to match the tie bar.
It helps not to screw the motor too tight to the underside of the baseboard.
It helps not to screw the motor too tight to the underside of the baseboard.
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Re: Point wiring
As SteveM has pointed out alignment is critical and is the most likely cause but one of your comments above poses the possibility that the point spring is missing. Solenoid motors rely on the spring to hold the switch rails in place whereas stall motors do not require the spring as they draw a small current that keeps the switch rails in place.stonesfan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 03, 2025 10:18 pm
Couple of questions:
1) Just how true aligned do these solenoids have to be out of interest?!
2) Should the throw bar move left and right on every consecutive actuation? A couple of my point solenoids throw in one direction but whilst they click in the other, they tend to return to central. This is when simply tested away from the track.
Richard
Re: Point wiring
Surface mounting PL-11 solenoid motors must not be pulled down too tightly onto the baseboard. Binding will cause poor operation.
To check your one that's not throwing correctly I would do the following..... Remove motor from the baseboard and then with the motor not connected to a point and in free air test its operation over and back. It should "Pop" over each way with each movement of the operating switch or lever. Please allow a couple of seconds to lapse between each switch operation to allow the CDU to fully recharge. Assuming it does move as expected carefully refit the motor to the point and ensure it is not being pulled down to tightly. Use some card packing under the motor if need be. Retest and it should work.
Other things to ensure are that the wiring to the point is of sufficient wire size. Here I recommend 16/0.2mm (0.5mm² or 20AWG) equipment wire be the minimum size used throughout. Also, the input power to the CDU should be at least 16 volts AC or 19 to 21 volts DC.
Check the point switch blades are held against the outer stock rail on each side to prove the over centre spring is working. If they are not held under spring tension the spring is either missing / come out of its slot or hole in the tie (stretcher) bar or it has broken. If needed Peco can supply spare springs if contacted.
To check your one that's not throwing correctly I would do the following..... Remove motor from the baseboard and then with the motor not connected to a point and in free air test its operation over and back. It should "Pop" over each way with each movement of the operating switch or lever. Please allow a couple of seconds to lapse between each switch operation to allow the CDU to fully recharge. Assuming it does move as expected carefully refit the motor to the point and ensure it is not being pulled down to tightly. Use some card packing under the motor if need be. Retest and it should work.
Other things to ensure are that the wiring to the point is of sufficient wire size. Here I recommend 16/0.2mm (0.5mm² or 20AWG) equipment wire be the minimum size used throughout. Also, the input power to the CDU should be at least 16 volts AC or 19 to 21 volts DC.
Check the point switch blades are held against the outer stock rail on each side to prove the over centre spring is working. If they are not held under spring tension the spring is either missing / come out of its slot or hole in the tie (stretcher) bar or it has broken. If needed Peco can supply spare springs if contacted.
Re: Point wiring
Hi All
Thanks for the responses. As most have suspected, the issue must surely be with alignment. I managed to rule out anything electrical earlier by doing a comprehensive test of 5 point solenoids. All points are brand new and have no issues with the springs either.
Used both CDU's, each with very similar results. The Gaugemaster CDU definitely requires less 'recovery' between discharges. The RK CDU only cost £10 but does have a status LED that informs you when the unit is fully charged. Using a multimeter across the outputs both charge to around 23v DC. One thing I did discover was the initial throw often produced a 'click' rather than a throw. From here on they operated fine.
Have a speeded up short video here of my findings.
https://youtu.be/_eAYzXTuLQM?si=8fbBMtORcqpCK6J-
Have one set operating fine, so will have to carefully place and secure the remaining 5 PL-11s. I think whoever said don't pin them down too hard was on to something. That may have been my undoing!
Will report back with good news hopefully.
Cheers
Thanks for the responses. As most have suspected, the issue must surely be with alignment. I managed to rule out anything electrical earlier by doing a comprehensive test of 5 point solenoids. All points are brand new and have no issues with the springs either.
Used both CDU's, each with very similar results. The Gaugemaster CDU definitely requires less 'recovery' between discharges. The RK CDU only cost £10 but does have a status LED that informs you when the unit is fully charged. Using a multimeter across the outputs both charge to around 23v DC. One thing I did discover was the initial throw often produced a 'click' rather than a throw. From here on they operated fine.
Have a speeded up short video here of my findings.
https://youtu.be/_eAYzXTuLQM?si=8fbBMtORcqpCK6J-
Have one set operating fine, so will have to carefully place and secure the remaining 5 PL-11s. I think whoever said don't pin them down too hard was on to something. That may have been my undoing!
Will report back with good news hopefully.
Cheers
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