Model Railway Forum

To take the mystery out of CVs and programming have a look at the free Decoder Pro computer program http://jmri.org/help/en/html/apps/Decod ... ndex.shtml

To use you either need a NCE USB Computer Interface https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/nce ... -powercab/(other suppliers exist) to use it with your Power Cab or a SPROG http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/ which will work standalone with your computer

Thanks for the links.

I am still catching up after my day at Ally Pally, which was enjoyable, but tiring.

I will get to exploring those links later in the week.

Best regards
Paul

If you are true to your forum name, I think I may have been standing behind you.

I was particularly impressed by the ‘New Kensal Green’ layout, a former GWR shed, especially the system being developed by one of their club members to synchronise chuffs with puffs of smoke from the chimney. Very effective indeed.

Did you buy anything, Steve. Were there any super deals.

Steve M wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:27 pm If you are true to your forum name, I think I may have been standing behind you.

I was particularly impressed by the ‘New Kensal Green’ layout, a former GWR shed, especially the system being developed by one of their club members to synchronise chuffs with puffs of smoke from the chimney. Very effective indeed.

Can't tell whether you were behind me or not!

Which exhibit or stand was this at and approx. what time? How tall was this guy??

Yes, New Kensal Green is very good, now where was that article on smoke generators...……

Must not get diverted from the job in hand.

I bought a range of bits and bobs.

Key items were:-
1) magnets for Kadee couplers (don't yet know if they will do the job!)
2) Hornby Sound fitted Vent van.
Have tried the van, and generally the sounds are good, but I am disappointed that while the train arriving at a station is clearly steam, the station announcements with it are clearly 2010s not 1960s!

Best regards
Paul

I think there were a few that matched the description Paul.

John, a number of stalls were advertising 'show prices' but they were far from attractive. I am after an LNER 'Atlantic' but they are a bit like hens teeth. Locomotion had one with the wrong box and a loose smoke box door for £120 the anticipated pain from the memsahib made me think twice.
Ended up with a Zen mini decoder, copper clad strip and a few detail bits for the yard - very restrained.

Yesterday I collected my latest items to be Sound Chipped.

One is a Bachmann WR 56xx tank, the other a Dapol class 122 Rail car.

The 56xx sounds good, although I think I shall have to increase some of the volumes a bit.

I have yet to find out if its sound is better than my TTS fitted Castle, although I suspect that may have to wait until I have somewhere to let them have a good run. So I may be putting together a circuit of 2nd radius curves as a continuous test track, once I figure out somewhere I can put it and leave it set up. It might be feasible in one corner of my workshop next to my existing long thin test track so that I can move my NEC from powering the existing test track to powering the circuit without too much trouble.

I have to say the "play" potential of the sound fitted class 122 is huge!

It is interesting to do a start up routine by switching on the cab lights, slamming the drivers door, starting the engine up, then on with the head and tail lights, off with the cab lights, on with the saloon lights, brakes off, rev the engine, and gently move forward!

Hope you are all progressing with your projects,

Best regards
Paul

Firstly, apologies for no update for a number of weeks, but several unplanned things both modelling and family/household got in the way!

Anyway, I have now able to test my old DC locos, as well as my newly converted DCC locos, having completed a roundy-round test track and provided it with both DC and DCC power, although switching between the two is not easy.

So can anyone tell me if I have separate power systems for DC and DCC, plugged into separate power sockets is it sufficient protection to switch which ever is not in use off at the socket and the power unit , or should I , as I am currently doing disconnect the system not being used from the tracks?

I realise I need to only have one type of locos, either DC or DCC, on the test track at one time according to which power system is being powered.

Having now got over my Class 31 Mayzak rot at the expense of a new class 31, I still need to test other classes highlighted on the rot list such as Bachmann class 42s, Hornby Class 50s and steam class 75xxx and MNs/WCs/WC 4-6-0s

The latest problem is the high current for Lima motors. I had tested several Lima locos and wanted a sound conversion on a GW AEC Parcels railcar as there seems little prospect of a new model unlike the passenger cars where I will have to be patient and save up for the new Heljan version. As the model ran wellI thought it ok, but on testing my model shop advised that it was drawing 1.1 amps which they thought too close to the 1.2 amp limit for Zimo chips, having had examples blow in the past.

So the two alternatives are :-
1) go for a second hand Heljan class 128 in BR green, which vehicle took over from the W34W AEC parcels car in the Thames Valley. This should convert to DCC sound ok.

2) buy a Hornby updated Lima GWR passenger car and swap to its chasss the body for the parcels car giving the parcels car a modern mechanism. This might be cheaper than 1) above provided Hornby have left the fixings between car body and chassis unchanged.

Any thoughts would be welcome!

Many thanks
Best regards

Paul

As you said, it’s vital to keep the two control systems (and their locos) separate.

The best way would be to simply fit a DPDT Centre off switch to select one or t’other.

Six terminals on the back of the switch - middle two to the track, top two to DCC and the bottom pair to DC. That way the two systems can never accidentally come into contact with each other.

Trouble is there is nowhere to mount a switch without quite a lot of work. This is a temporary testing and DCC set up track and has no control panel! Only way I can see is to find a small plastic box , mount the switch on one side and sockets for the three sets of cables (one input, two outputs on the other and then put appropriate plugs on the three leads.
Anyone got a suggestion involving less work?

Many thanks
Best regards
Paul